The wedding dress for Kate Middleton is a dream for millions of young girls but Handicraft who helped create this unique piece usually do much less.
To boost the image of crafts, Colbert has taken a series of initiatives, including through an agreement with the rector of Paris, to discover the business of luxury students graduate.
"Find craft skills and motivate the younger generation for this type of art is a general problem with the French industry," says Elisabeth Ponsolle des Portes, Delegate General of the Comité Colbert, the agency that represents seventy-five houses in the area of luxury in France.
"Today, it is difficult, for example, find furriers and motivate young people to train in this profession," she adds, while stressing that the trades are devalued in French society.
"We let them visit the shops or high fashion jewelry and give them the opportunity to talk with the artisans to show that these trades are considered true treasures for the company," says Elisabeth Ponsolle Gates.
The finding is similar to the UK where the British jeweler Theo Fennell said it was difficult to convince young people to devote considerable time to acquire scarce skills, at the finish, earning less than in other occupations popular with people their age.
"One might think that young people are lining up to become an apprentice, but this is not the case," said Theo Fennell, founder and artistic director of the eponymous brand at the global summit of luxury and fashion hosted by Reuters.
SECURING THE KNOW-HOW IN THE LACE
A Caudry, the cradle of lace industry in northern France, the transmission of craft skills is a priority for companies such as Sophie Hallett and Solstiss, two lace makers have recognized some of their reasons in the dress of the wife of Prince William.
The lace of the dress made in great secrecy by Sarah Burton Alexander McQueen, one of the houses of the PPR group, have been carefully assembled from different grounds of English and French lace to create a unique piece.
"We are committed to sustain our business because it is a rare skill.It's a job that is not learned in books, "said Maud Lescroart, marketing director and member of the family who runs this company for three generations.
Maud Lescroart says it takes about seven years to train a tulle, the worker-craftsman who operates the business on which is woven Leavers lace.
Sophie Hallette society, which manufactures lace for fashion houses such as Valentino, Christian Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier, employs 200 people and trains about 20 new recruits per year.
Herve Protais, sales manager and director of the house Solstiss, a local competitor, however, recognizes that it is not always easy to motivate youth to work on looms dating from the nineteenth century, much noisier than modern machines .
"Work schedules are also very irregular, since rates are driven by cycles in the collections of fashion and haute couture," he adds.
Herve Protais insists, however, that Soltiss, who works with houses such as Chanel and Givenchy, is not faced with major difficulties in recruitment, the profession still enjoying a real social recognition and offering Caudry addition of attractive salaries.
Tulle workers who are paid to produce, can earn up to 3,000 euros per month, "he recalls.
During the crisis, which has forced companies to lay off lace, tulle from the craft has been very little affected, these skills are very difficult to trace where the activity is restarted, Herve Protais also observed.
Desperately WATCHMAKER SEARCH
The question of know-how arises more acutely in watchmaking in Switzerland, which is currently facing pressure on the productive side to the popularity of Asian consumers for luxury watches.
The Swiss watch industry is currently experiencing a wave of recruitment.
Swatch Group, which had insisted on the need to keep skills sharp during the crisis, plans to hire between 1,000 and 1,500 people this year.
Last week, rival Richemont, owner of the house Cartier has also announced plans to create up to 800 jobs in Switzerland.
"We will train people for the positions we offer. We expect that many people discover that we recruit the watch industry," acknowledges Alan Grieve, the spokesperson of the group.
Richemont watch form about 65 per year.Vacheron Constantin, one of the oldest houses to watch Swiss entry into the group in 1996, as currently twelve apprentices and this figure could rise to sixteen in two years, said Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO of the house.
According to figures published by the Employers' Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, 318 watchmakers and business associates were formed in 2010, twice more than in 2001.
Paul-Andre Hartmann, director of a special school based in Le Locle, the heart of the Swiss Watch Industry, said the danger for the entire profession to see the younger generations turn away from these trades.
"If they disappear, the entire watch industry will be affected," he warns.